The Swiss watch brand PatekPhilippe founded 179 years ago, from the three-question perpetual calendar chronograph movement with a variety of complex functions to the most basic hand-finished movement, the almost lost tradition of filigree enamel technology to The industry’s highest standard Patek Philippe imprint standard, its strong watch strength has created a fantasy watch just like a work of art, in the highly competitive fine watchmaking industry. However, from the high-end to the entry-level watch technology, Patek Philippe believes that the ‘chronograph’ function best reflects the spirit of the brand. In recent years, it has actively held special exhibitions focusing on this theme, ranging from the century-old pocket watches in the brand museum to recent topics. Constantly making large chronographs, reviewing the achievements of the chronograph field in the past century, and witnessing the brand’s breakthrough innovations in watchmaking technology.
CH 28-520C is the first self-winding chronograph movement of Patek Philippe in 2006. It is also the first flyback chronograph movement of modern PP. It is equipped with a column wheel structure and a double-layer hairspring.
Feature one: the starting point of the PP self-made movement
Since 2005, Patek Philippe has gradually implemented its own blueprint for chronograph movements. It first introduced the CH 27-525 PS hand-finished caliber with the thinnest double-tracking chronograph movement. It was launched the following year. The CH 28-520C chronograph movement introduced this time. CH 28-520C is Patek Philippe’s first self-made automatic winding movement. It is mounted on Ref. 5980 / 1A-001 chronograph and pays tribute to the 30th anniversary of its classic series Nautilus. The first use of the column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism CH 28-520C effectively solves the delay and fast jitter caused by the impact of the chronograph second hand when starting and stopping timing, which greatly improves the timing accuracy. It is also rare to have a Breguet double-layer spring. Automatic winding movement, excellent isochronism needless to say, can be called the leader of a new generation of chronograph movement. Different from the ordinary three-eye or two-eye chronograph configuration, Ref.5980 adopts the unique time-axis coaxial chronograph configuration. The central second hand also counts seconds. The 6:00 chronograph dial shows the hour and minute accumulation scales, which can directly read the time.
The current version of Nautilus uses a three-layer case with locking screws on the side. The brand has fine-tuned the structure and shape of the case to make the watch more comfortable to wear. In addition, the dimensions of the case, hour markers, hands, etc. are also enlarged. Makes it more readable
Feature two: the case structure evolves again
Not only working on the movement, Patek Philippe replaced the previous two-layer structure with a three-layer case. The front side is locked with screws and the transparent bottom cover is designed. The fine-tuned structure and the shape of the case are more comfortable to wear, and the case is enlarged. , Hour markers, hands and other dimensions, better visual readability, hand-worked to transform the masterpiece of Gérald Genta masterpiece, so that ‘the world’s most expensive stainless steel watch’ show a new look thirty years later. This Nautilus Ref.5980R-001 launched by Patek Philippe is made of rose gold with a special case and a leather strap. It is an attempt that Nautilus has never seen before. Different from the reddish hue of rose gold, Patek Philippe uses 18K rose gold 5N material with more copper elements. On the one hand, the rose gold material gives a noble image, and the unobtrusive and restrained red system brings out the series in a timely manner. A sporty style that strikes a perfect balance between sport and elegance.
The watch is equipped with a brown face plate. The central color of the face plate is decorated from light to deep with straight stripes, and with a brown leather strap, let Nautilus exude an elegant style.
Feature three: Golden Eagle series rare brown face plate
On the other hand, the special color of the Nautilus series faceplate has always been the focus of watch fans, especially the metallic texture and the case material complement each other. Among them, Ref.5980R uses a series of rare brown faceplates, and the central color of the faceplate Extending from light to deep with straight stripes, and matching brown leather strap, Nautilus’s elegant style is more prominent. The Ref.5980 / 1A-014 published in the same year is loyal to the original color of stainless steel, but it is different from the main color of the dark blue gradient faceplate of the predecessors such as Ref.5980 / 1A-001. For the first time, the black element is introduced. The most unchanged primary color black tone creates a rich and diverse faceplate layer. At the same time, the date window at the three o’clock position also uses a black background with white digital display for the first time. Looking at the different materials and color matching styles that have evolved in 5980 in recent years, people can see that the watch king has more than enough flexibility in the use of materials and colors, making the Nautilus series constantly new.
Nautilus Ref. 5980R-001
18K rose gold material / CH 28-520 C self-winding movement / hour, minute, second, date display / chronograph function / Pakto Philippe imprint / brown face plate / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / waterproof 120 meters / table Diameter 40.5mm / Reference price: 410,000 RMB