We just launched a column called ‘Watch Branding Series’ recently. When I sorted out the Patek Philippe brand, I found a problem. People still feel the most complicated watches. interest. Therefore, according to everyone’s preferences, we decided to launch the ‘Historical Complex Function Watch Collection’ section. In this column, we will show you the famous historical complex function models. Since it is a complex function, the threshold cannot be set too low , Currently set in the calendar function, of course, the possibility of raising the threshold will not be ruled out in the future.
As the first article in this column, the style is naturally high. Let’s start with the tourbillon. Although everyone may think this function is vulgar, there is no way. Who can make it still the most popular complex function at present? ? Some netizens may have a deep understanding of the tourbillon, but in order to take care of most of them, I still have to talk about some things about it.
Speaking of the tourbillon, we must first talk about the second great apple in human history. We know that the great apple made Teacher Newton discover the law of gravity, so according to this law, the watchmaker found out why the time of the clock is not accurate? Because when the clock is placed in different orientations, the gravity of the earth will affect the moving parts in the movement, which will affect its accuracy.
The so-called time to create a hero, at this time Uncle Abraham-Louis Breguet appeared Breguet, he invented a kind of Dongdong called a tourbillon, June 26, 1801, Breguet obtained the patent Right, this great invention has a rotatable frame that houses components such as a balance with hairspring (the heart of the movement) and an escapement. When the tourbillon frame rotates evenly, the balance wheel and escapement also constantly change positions while moving, so as to offset the influence of gravity to the greatest extent (especially when the watch is placed vertically).
In the sixteen years from 1805 to 1823 (the year Breguet died), only 35 ‘tourbillon’ watches were sold, which is enough to illustrate the complexity of making such watches. Because of this, the successors saw it as the greatest invention of horology. After 212 years, the tourbillon structure has changed from flat to three-dimensional, and the number has changed from one to more. Although the practicality is declining, the pursuit of watchmaking technology and art has never changed.
Double Tourbillon Classique 5347
This watch has three patents, two independently operating tourbillons are arranged on the rotating center plate, and the watch’s dial rotates once in 12 hours. The accuracy of the watch is the average speed of the two tourbillons, which is more than twice the accuracy of the ordinary movement, which can offset the isochronous error of the oscillator when the watch is upright. The watch displays the hour with a hand connected to the double tourbillon adjustment device, and the minute with the central standard hand. Through the case’s sapphire caseback, you can see the watchmaker’s brainstorming—the mechanical movement, the manually modified plywood, the round chamfered wheel and other chamfered components are all advanced watchmaking technology. reflect.
Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon
I believe that when many people see this watch, they have never thought that Breitling will also make a tourbillon. However, the facts tell us that not only has it been produced, but also the crystallization of the tourbillon and chronograph. It is engraved with the buyer’s logo and initials. The time scale on the dial is made of natural mother-of-pearl, and the precious wood decoration under the sapphire crystal back is selected from the same color and material as the Bentley Mullin wood panel.
Léman Tourbillon Semainier
The characteristic tourbillon rotation mechanism is located at the 12 o’clock scale. In addition to displaying the day of the week and calendar, this watch also has a weekly calendar display, and the information is displayed by a series of numbers around the dial through the central pointer. Its number ranges from 1 to 53 to remind the number of weeks in different years.
Defy Xtreme Tourbillon
Although this series of Zenith has been discontinued, I always think that the Defy series is the coolest watch in Zenith history. This watch is equipped with the El Primero 4035SX movement, the date is displayed on the tourbillon holder, and many of the dials The display disc is like the wheel edge of the latest concept car, which is a representative work of avant-garde design.
This watch should be regarded as a green piece of Hublot BigBang tourbillon watch. The seemingly unpredictable tourbillon mechanism is located at 6 o’clock, and the dial can also find the classic device of high-end chronograph-star The column wheel, although this tourbillon watch now looks nothing, but when it was launched in 2006, it was quite a sensation.
Octo Tourbillon Retrograde Hours
Although now owned by Bulgari, we see how personal he is in history. The design of the see-through dial is dazzling. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock seems to be suspended above the movement. The design of the hour hand It was a fashionable way of jumping back then.
Tortue XL Tourbillon
Cartier’s high-end watch series has now been renamed to the HH series, but I still miss that CPCP era. The focus on the dial is not only the creative double C logo design, but in fact it serves as a tourbillon fixed bracket, but also There are double jump hands indicating that the left and right sides of the dial are the scale of the clock and minutes, respectively, while the hour and minute hands do not follow a circular trajectory. Both hands start from their starting point near the double C mark, and when they reach 12 After the point scale, it will jump back to the starting point.
The stable and long-lasting power is conducive to the operation of the tourbillon device. This watch uses four barrels to achieve eight days of power reserve. The display at the 12-point scale on the dial shows this function, and it is located at the 6-point scale The tourbillon device also embodies the sense of design. The fixed bracket is like a bird’s wing, and the rotating frame has a dynamic curve.
Daniel Roth (Daninov)
Tourbillon 8 Day Power Reserve
This watch has an hour and minute display at the top of the dial, and a tourbillon device at the bottom. The hands are displayed with three unequal-length finger seconds made of K gold. As for the date display and the power reserve display of up to 200 hours, it is ingeniously placed on the caseback equipped with a tiltable bottom cover. When you need to open the removable bottom cover made of 18K gold, you can open and close it with a rotating shaft located at 12 o’clock.
This watch movement has a dual barrel and is equipped with an 8-day power reserve display. The case is made of platinum and the tourbillon mechanism is equipped with a balance wheel with compensation screws. In terms of shape, the watchmaker engraved Franck Muller’s abbreviation in the rotating frame of the tourbillon in a refined way. It has a power reserve display at the 12 o’clock position of the dial. The automatic tourbillon can be seen through the case back.
Icon8 Vertical Tourbillon
Clerc’s first application of the tourbillon device to this brand’s models foreshadows its determination to enter the field of high-end watches. The special eccentric dial design creates a visual difference, and this change mainly comes from the lines derived from the tourbillon device. The tourbillon at 9 o’clock seems to be the center of the entire dial.
Project Z3 Sport
The dynamic design of this watch makes this tourbillon watch have more sports elements. On the one hand, it uses a zirconium alloy case and rubber strap. On the other hand, the 110-hour enduring power ensures the normal operation of the tourbillon device.
This is Roger Dubuis’ first RD 09 manual winding movement designed for ladies. It is another representative work of the small tourbillon movement. At 6 o’clock, the flying tourbillon device is equipped with blue steel. The second hand of the material is displayed.
Tourbillon Force Constante Academia
The principle of constant power is applied to the tourbillon watch in order to achieve more accurate travel time. This watch is equipped with a set of mechanism between the barrel and the tourbillon device. This mechanism uses a cross inertia wheel to collect the power first. Then, the power energy stored in the mechanism is transmitted to the tourbillon device every ten seconds. In fact, there is a spring at the bottom of the cross inertia wheel, which can ensure that the power delivered to the tourbillon is always uniform, so Make travel time more accurate.
This watch was definitely a new generation tourbillon design model. It was equipped with Piaget’s self-made 608P movement. The other end of the tourbillon was set as a minute hand. It could rotate 360 degrees on the dial. The time of one revolution was 60 minutes. The scale dial is responsible for the hour indication.
Summary: Because it is a highlight, each watch is only briefly introduced. If you have any favorite of the above models, please let us know. We will choose the models of popularity index for detailed introduction, although the above models have Have been discontinued, but it is because of them that they have created a splendid world of watches and clocks, please remember them! (Text / picture watch home Mao Zhuang)...
If a watch is properly maintained, its service life is unlimited. Today, we will explore the secrets of Glashütte’s original watch maintenance.
The original Glashütte after-sales repair center is located in the comprehensive service center of Shanghai Ruibiao Group. It is a sacred place for the maintenance technicians across the country. Because there are currently 9 repairing Glashütte original maintenance masters nationwide, There are 4 repair centers in Shanghai, and those who can work in this position must be very experienced watch repairers. The watch topics and technical challenges encountered in repairs and new practical ideas just after everyone’s chat have sounded extremely extreme. Wonderful.
The maintenance level of the entire Swiss Watch Group is from level 1 to level 7. There are only 5 masters of level 7 in the country. Glashütte originals occupy 2 of them. The repairing strength of this ‘explosive watch’ is really shocking!
Watch repair is not a big picture, ‘it is desirable’ do not believe
From an original Glashütte watch to be repaired or serviced to the repair center, it begins a meticulous and comprehensive service journey:
First it will enter the unpacking workshop to unpack.
Then issue a repair order and carry out the most important step-‘pre-inspection’: Glashütte’s original maintenance pre-inspection is very unique, it will disassemble the watch completely, not just inspect the problem parts, Doing this work requires a wealth of maintenance experience and judgment, and even more serious attitude, so the master responsible for pre-inspection must be the most senior teacher in the entire workshop to be competent.
Disassembling the entire watch is one aspect of Glashütte’s original global uniform maintenance standard process, on the other hand it also illustrates the master’s extreme care for the customer’s watch.
After the pre-inspection is completed, a service quotation will be made, and the corresponding repair and maintenance will be provided to the customer.
When it is officially repaired, the watch will be disassembled into two parts: ‘appearance parts’ and ‘movement parts’.
Glashütte Original first grinds and polishes the appearance parts, which is a very important value-added service to customers. Because the precision and professionalism required for sanding are extremely strong, and the experience and technical requirements of the practitioners are very high, the sander is a very scarce post in the entire watch repair field. Glashütte’s unrelenting attitude in the polishing process is another major feature that distinguishes it from other brands’ after-sales maintenance.
At the same time as grinding, the maintenance master will pick out all aging parts or worn parts, replace them with new ones or perform corresponding repairs.
All remaining parts are uniformly washed to ensure that the parts are in perfect condition when reassembled. After all parts are repaired, they will be assembled back into the watch and re-lubricated.
After the entire watch is assembled, it will be tested again to meet Glashütte’s original factory standards.
Glashütte’s original repair and test links are extremely strict. It is necessary to test the running time of the watch in the full chain state on the shaker; test the waterproof performance of the watch; let the watch run through the entire power reserve time period, and ultimately, our The repairman performs a re-examination of the complete appearance.
Generally, without waiting for spare parts, a Glashütte original watch has a construction period of 15 to 22 working days from pre-inspection to completion of maintenance and quality control.
The movement of antique watches
If the customer has a need, Glashütte Original can also repair almost all antique watches produced in Glashütte town. Usually this service will transfer the watch to the German headquarters antique repair room through Shanghai Comprehensive Service Center because The most complete watch spare parts and design drawings of the town of Glashütte between 1845 and 1990.
Glashütte Original Antique Restoration Room (Germany)...