The new complex functions and stylish design make it the perfect watch of this era.
Patek Philippe launched this year at the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show as a new addition to its Nautilus complication series, giving travellers the time function to indicate the time between the two places. The new watch combines two widely sought-after complication functions, but also serves other purposes and facilitates daily life. For nearly forty years, the casual and elegant Nautilus watch has always enjoyed the glorious status of classics. This collection combines extraordinary functionality with rugged endurance. The shape and sturdiness of the case are two important features of this model from beginning to end. The integration of complex functions such as the analog date display and moon phase display adds to its charm. In 2006, Patek Philippe launched the first Nautilus chronograph. This chronograph is obviously the work that watch connoisseurs who love sports look forward to. Today, this coveted chronograph adds practical travel time features, hence the name Nautilus Traveller Chronograph Ref. 5990 / 1A.
A journey through time
The second time zone display and timing two complication functions appropriately represent the personal lifestyle of travel and sports in today’s era: travel around the world, but never forget the source (home). For time zone functions, the new Nautilus chronograph features two coaxial hour hands. The hour hand below is cut out, while the hour hand above is the same as the minute hand. The skeletonized hour hand indicates the home time, while the solid hour hand indicates the local time. When the wearer is in the place of origin, the two times are the same, and the two hour hands overlap. When the wearer enters another time zone, he can press the plus and minus adjustment buttons to adjust the local time hand back and forth in units of one hour.
When traveling east, the local time hand must be adjusted clockwise, and when traveling west, the hand must be adjusted counterclockwise. The skeletonized hour hand is not affected by this adjustment and continues to indicate the home time. In addition to this feature, the Nautilus traveller’s chronograph also integrates two independent day / night display windows, labeled ‘LOCAL’ and ‘HOME’ to display the day and night time in different time zones. With this feature, people who are away will not be late at night, and unintentionally the phone will affect family members who are resting far away.
Nautilus is built for travel time features
For Nautilus chronographs to integrate travel time features, it is necessary to redesign the case and develop a new movement. The unique porthole shape and two side hinges make the Nautilus case ideal for this new design. The right hinge protects the crown, while the opposite left hinge sets the time zone plus and minus adjustment buttons. Because these external components closely follow the original shape of the case, the distinctive shape of Nautilus is retained. However, for the case craftsman, this seemingly simple shape brings a very difficult challenge in the actual production process: each button must be individually drilled in the case, but the waterproof performance still needs to reach 120 meters. (12 atmospheres). However, the new Nautilus traveller’s chronograph finally met all the stringent requirements for waterproof performance, which fully reflects the highly accurate manufacturing process of Patek Philippe Case Workshop and the skilled use of the latest sealing technology.
During the redesign, the two timing buttons at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock, respectively, are closer to the crown. After moving to the new position, the two buttons can more directly transmit instructions to the chronograph movement, which can be felt from its clear trigger position and soft force feedback. In addition, the new layout allows enough space to incorporate a date correction button near the lugs at 1 o’clock.
The world-renowned Nautilus stainless steel bracelet is now firmly connected to the case, the outer links are frosted, and the center links are mirror-polished. This bracelet ensures that the watch is comfortable to wear and fits snugly on the wrist, while the stainless steel folding clasp provides extra security. Dial: The new design but still no doubt Nautilus’ new time zone function also affects the dial design. The traditional Nautilus style is displayed in a new layout. The black dial features a light-dark gradient from the inside to the outside, with the familiar Nautilus horizontal relief pattern, and is decorated with 10 18K white gold three-dimensional hour markers. The day / night display window, as a new design element, is located slightly below the center axis: at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock respectively, the former corresponds to the fluorescent hour hand indicating the local time, and the latter corresponds to the hollow-out hour hand indicating the home time. The new analog date display at 12 o’clock and the new 60-minute cumulative timer at 6 o’clock complete the dial. This dial has a clear layout, with the Barton-style fluorescent hour hand indicating the local time, the same-sized home-origin hollow hour hand, and a longer Barton-style minute hand shared by both time zones and also covered with Superluminova fluorescent coating. . The slim chronograph seconds hand is made of rhodium-plated steel, with a large counterweight, and has a sword-shaped design similar to the small white lacquered hands at 60 o’clock and the 60-minute counter. A subtle visual balance with the delicate white lacquered white gold Barton date hands at 12 o’clock.
Another new movement of Patek Philippe
The above-mentioned complication features have been adopted in other Patek Philippe timepieces, but they are the first combination in the new Nautilus traveller chronograph. Therefore, the new CH 28-520 C FUS movement came into being. On the basis of the travel time movement, a timing device with a traditional star wheel design and an innovative disc clutch was added. This clever and practical device for travel time dates back to a patent issued by Patek Philippe in 1959. It can not only adjust the local time in one hour as a unit, but also change the time zone setting completely independently of the travel time train. This can prevent the time zone adjustment from adversely affecting the balance swing and travel time accuracy. The local time date display (in the Ref. 5980/1 Nautilus chronograph, the date display is at 3 o’clock) was repositioned to 12 o’clock and changed to the analog display, and the single timer at 6 o’clock became 60 Minute accumulation timer. This small change actually requires the addition of 47 parts. However, the thickness of the movement is only 0.3 mm larger than the original movement. This is partly due to the brand’s patented Spiromax® hairspring made of Silinvar® material, replacing the larger Breguet double-layer hairspring in the escapement. Due to the clever geometry, the escapement oscillates in a plane, but the swing is balanced and isochronous.
Other characteristics of this movement are already well known. The watch is automatically wound by a 21K gold central rotor. The Gyromax® balance, invented by Patek Philippe 60 years ago, has a vibration frequency of up to 28,800 half-pendulums (4 Hz) per hour. The perfect finishing of the movement includes the chamfering of the edges of the splint, the Geneva stripe decoration on the splint surface, and the Geneva grain pattern on the automatic rotor. Through the sapphire crystal case, you can admire the unparalleled perfection of this mechanical movement, which will make real watch lovers fall for it.
Given the success of the casual and elegant Nautilus chronograph, Patek Philippe was inspired to add the extremely popular time zone feature to the collection, adding a fascinating masterpiece to this complex collection. The new Patek Philippe Nautilus traveller’s chronograph Ref. 5990 / 1A will replace the Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980 / 1A, a stainless steel bracelet first introduced in 2006 to mark the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection.
Nautilus Traveller Chronograph Ref. 5990 / 1A
Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS
Self-winding movement, star wheel chronograph with disc clutch and 60-minute totalizer
Chronograph, central chronograph seconds hand, dual time zone display, with local time and home time
Night display, analog date display
Movement size: 28 x 31 mm
Movement thickness: 6.95 mm
Number of parts: 370
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: 45 hours minimum, 55 hours maximum
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Frequency: 28,800 pendulums per hour (4 Hz)
Hairspring outer bolt: adjustable
Crown function: Two-position crown
– Pull out: Set time
– Home position: Can be wound
Display: Home time hour hand (lower hand) and local time hour hand (upper hand), center minute hand
Center chronograph second hand at 6 o’clock 60-minute counter chronograph date display at 12 o’clock
The window shows:
-Local time day / night display at 9 o’clock
-Home time day / night display window adjustment button at 3 o’clock: Date adjustment button between 12 o’clock and 1 o’clock Button: Button at 2 o’clock for start / stop timing function at 4 o’clock The button is used to redesign the pointer and return it
Button at 8 o’clock for forward hand adjustment by one hour
The button at 10 o’clock is used to adjust the hands backwards by one hour
Quality Imprint: Patek Philippe Imprint
Case: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal case back, fixed with four polished screws, screw-in waterproof crown
Bezel polished and satin-finished
Water resistance up to 120 meters
Case size: Case diameter (10 o’clock to 4 o’clock): 40.5 mm
Length (diagonal of lugs): 45.50 mm
Width (3 to 9 o’clock including crown): 45.70 mm
Thickness (mirror to transparent cover): 12.53 mm
Dial: Black brass, gradient effect
Horizontal relief pattern
10 18K White Gold Barton Stereo Clocks with Fluorescent Coating
18K White Gold Barton Local Hour and Minute Hands with Fluorescent Coating
18K White Gold Barton House Home Hand, White Lacquered, Hollow Out Stainless Steel Chronograph Seconds, Sandblasted Rhodium Plated
18K White Gold Button Date Hand, White Lacquered
White date scale on the secondary dial at 12 o’clock
Barton chronograph minute hand made of brass, white lacquered, with counterweight
60-minute white cumulative chronograph scale on the auxiliary dial at 6 o’clock
Bracelet: stainless steel, satin / mirror polished, with Nautilus folding clasp
The above is the 2014 Basel watch related information carefully prepared by the staff in front of the Watch House. In the future, we will continue to provide more and more intuitive exhibition reports for everyone, please pay attention to it.
2014 Basel Watch Show Special Website: